I’ve often mused about the two divergent modes of medical-marijuana dispensary operation:

I’ve often mused about the two divergent modes of medical-marijuana dispensary operation: Under one paradigm, the patient experience is akin to visiting a pharmacy or medical office; under the other are the more-informal shops that feel more like visiting a friend. The Harlee Cooperative, located in a detached garage in a residential section of what could be described as either North Lynnwood or South Everett, falls decidedly in the latter category.

The minute I walked into THC (see what they did there?), I felt at ease. Budtender Cody’s disarming smile and relaxed vibe were in welcome contrast to the hipper-than-thou weirdness found in some shops.

It’s entertaining to watch Cody’s presentation. There are only about a dozen strains, but they are all in unlabeled jars, and Cody seems to know exactly what’s in every one.

The cooperative was down to just one sativa strain on the day I visited; fortunately this wasn’t a problem, as I was mostly looking for indicas. I selected the hybrid and local favorite PermaFrost and the indica-dominant Dutch Melon, a cross between Dutch Treat and Watermelon Kush that is so new its name isn’t even official yet. (Cody told me that he and the grower were using “Dutch Melon” as a working name in the meantime.)

Cody was accurate when he said Dutch Melon has the taste of Dutch Treat and the wallop of Watermelon Kush. The flowers smell and taste of the sweetly dank Dutch strain, yet produce the Kush’s mesmerizing couchlock. Quite useful for nausea and pain, Dutch Melon makes a good evening smoke, as it can produce sleepiness if you take more than a few tokes.

PermaFrost enjoys a special place in the pantheon of Pacific Northwest cannabis strains. Reportedly developed right here in Washington, this hybrid gets its name from the thick coating of sticky trichomes, with the appearance of ice crystals, on its flowers.

The Frost is some mighty good medicine; kudos to the grower. Just a few tokes in, I got that portentous feeling associated only with the come-on of high-potency marijuana, and the strain lived up to that early promise with a heavily medicated two-hour high, during which both pain and nausea (both of which had been quite prevalent beforehand) became practically indiscernible.

All flowers are $10 a gram at The Harlee Cooperative; the shop also has a small selection of medibles, including some gummy treats that you don’t want to miss. There are several different kinds of EdiPure gummy candies; I can pass along Cody’s recommendation of the Peach Tarts, since I tried them to good effect (one of the best nights’ rest in a while). The treats come either 10 to a pack with 10 mg of THC each or four to a pack with 25 mg each; either way you get a total of 100 mg of THC for $10, and it’s well worth it.

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Steve Elliott edits Toke Signals, tokesignals.com, an irreverent, independent blog of cannabis news, views, and information.

THE HARLEE COOPERATIVE 14031 52nd Ave. W., Edmonds, 360-393-9064, harleecooperative.com. 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat.