I have to admit that the name LC’s Kitchen conjured up images of yet another diner with Bertha in the back kitchen hunched over a deep fryer whipping up traditional greasy spoon specialties. Needless to say, I was wrong, or you wouldn’t be reading this. Perhaps the only thing diner-ish about this Lake City treasure is its unfortunate location, right off Lake City Way, difficult to notice on a dark corner.

Outside, the restaurant is as unassuming as its location, with only a couple of colorful signs hanging from the awning, but upon entering LC’s we were greeted by delicious aromas and friendly smiles from the wait staff. The restaurant forms a soft L-shape with the wooded bar in the middle, and rich yellow-painted walls provide a simple yet warmly comfortable setting in which to devour a distinctive meal.

We were seated close to the spacious, open kitchen in the corner of the restaurant and began to leaf through what can only be described as an original menu. I attempted, during both of my trips, to get an explanation of LC’s type of food, some sort of classification for those wondering whether a visit to Lake City is in order. Unfortunately, the best my slyness managed to procure from the waitresses were “Americana,” “Southwestern-inspired,” and even “seafood focused.” So I guess we’ll go with those.

My companions and I began with the Meze Platter ($8.50), overflowing with kalamata olive spread, roasted red peppers, oven-roasted tomatoes, and fresh mozzarella to be stacked on little toasted slices of fresh bread. We weren’t sure which category this appetizer fit into . . . we just knew it was exceptional. The mozzarella was flavorful and the kalamata so rich that we ran out of the spread long before the bread was gone.

Next came a tasty side salad complete with croutons and asaigo and drizzled with herb vinaigrette, then our main dishes (perhaps it was the nearly empty restaurant, but service was impeccable that night). We immediately dived into the island jerk chicken ($11.95), tequila fettuccini ($11.95), and the seafood stew of the day ($11.95), stabbing forks and spoons into each other’s entrées. I was disappointed by the island jerk chicken, because although it was marinated in LC’s tangy jerk marinade, it seemed pretty flavorless and dull, and even the house-made black beans, though tasty, couldn’t spice it up much. But what are friends for but to steal food from? The chipotle tequila cream sauce of the tequila fettuccini to my left definitely had the kick that my chicken was lacking, although it lacked the grilled chicken the menu promised. (I thought I saw tiny pieces buried under the roasted poblano peppers and fresh tomatoes and corn, but I couldn’t be sure). The flavor was unique though, and the creamy sauce ideal for spicy pasta lovers.

I preyed on LC’s seafood stew next, and to me, this was the absolute hit of the night. Fresh, juicy shrimp and clams smothered with a creamy sauce and surrounded by potatoes, onions, and artichoke hearts. (The stew changes daily, so I can’t guarantee yours will achieve the perfection ours did.) If not every dish was completely satisfying, LC’s Kitchen still deserves attention for combining flavors and foods in a way that is unique for the Seattle dining scene. From classy quesadillas to blackened pork loin to grilled portobello sandwiches and Portuguese clams cataplana, owner/chef Pauline Wickey is definitely pointing this cafe in the right direction. Even if we’re not exactly sure where that is.

hlogue@seattleweekly.com

LC’s Kitchen, 8001 Lake City Way N.E., 206-522-1114. Tues.–Fri 11 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–2 p.m.; brunch Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–2 p.m.