When I go to a bar, I find myself checking the tap list for one style of beer first. It’s an unlikely sort, different from the much more popular IPAs, ciders, pale ales, or lighter fare like pilsners or lagers. What I look for are red ales. And I’m not alone—in a recent conversation with Georgetown Brewing co-founder Manny Chao, he admitted to loving the style too.
“I’ve always loved Mad River’s Jamaica Red Ale,” says the brewer. “But it always came and went. I think they had problems with their capacity; you’d see it on the market and then it would disappear.”
As a result, Chao and Georgetown created their own red ale: Chopper’s, named after former Georgetown employee Brett Chop.
Chopper’s might be my favorite beer in the whole city—it’s a hoppier red than, say, the nationally known Killian’s Irish Red, and it’s lighter and cleaner (5.4 percent alcohol by volume) than traditional Scotch ales, which tend to be thicker, sweeter, and heavier. Another great red ale comes from Double Mountain in Hood River, Ore., which brews the phenomenal IRA, or India Red Ale, a sharp red with more hops than just about any in the style, though it’s not too heavy, at 6.5 percent ABV.
Historically, many styles of beer have been dubbed red ale or Irish red ale or Scotch ale, because, depending on which malts and grains were used, they ended up looking red or amber in color—or simply originated from Ireland or Scotland. Some of those beers are now called English-style bitters or plain amber ales. These are not the beers I’m singing the praises of.
Rather, the best-known (local) example of what I’m talking about might be Pike’s Kilt Lifter, which Pike Brewing describes as having “layers of sweet malt, reminiscent of marmalade . . . followed by peat-smoked flavors.” They go on: “At the turn of the 20th century, Edinburgh, Scotland, was famous for a dozen breweries producing strong and malty ale. To this day a ‘Scotch’ is a style of beer, not a whiskey.”
But I often go a step or two away from the maltier side of red ales, choosing Chopper’s or Double Mountain’s IRA—beers that add a hoppy flavor to the brew’s profile. To me, it’s the best of both worlds.
But if you’re looking for something that splits the difference—a red ale with a touch of malt, a touch of oak-barrel finish, and little to no hops—try Odin Brewing’s Ruby Red, which they’ve also called Odin’s Gift. It’s another satisfying ale that drinks light and tastes different than just about anything else on the market.
beerhunting@seattleweekly.com