Fat, creamy gnocchi are the ultimate comfort food, and at new Smash Wine Bar & Bistro, they’re doubly fine washed down with flights of wine. The house-made potato pasta blobs are served with spinach, grappa, bleu des causses cheese, and pine nuts. Oh-my-gawd, they’re good going down. Also of note at the simply decorated wine bar: bruschetta with mushrooms, artichokes, asparagus, and gruyère. The menu of small plates and bites of various sizes is slated to change frequently, and you can order goodies appropriate for any level of hunger, ranging a handful of Marcona almonds to a serving of pork tenderloin with spring pea polenta and orange butter. Jeffrey Dorgan, formerly of Cascadia restaurant, is wine director (and co-owner, along with Dana Hannon), and his list offers many themed flights (e.g. the Rhone Ranger) and wines by the glass. And, where there’s wine, there’s cheese; Smash’s cheese flights will also make you go “mmm,” especially the “Triple My Cream.” Serves dinner daily except Sunday.