Right around the time you hit your mid-30s, it becomes clear that some of the friends you might have imagined ending up with kids have officially opted out of the wild world of parenting. And when you think about lost luxuries, like late-night dinners and regularly scheduled happy hours, who can blame them?
Parenting makes a lot more sense in practice than in theory, and if you don’t have kids, it’s easy to watch the slow, steady social decline of some of the people in your life who do. To keep up relationships with friends after their little ones arrive, you might have to agree to meet for meals at places you probably wouldn’t otherwise pick—for instance, Madrona’s Pritty Boys Family Pizzeria.
Last weekend, a rogue toy shopping cart parked by the front door greeted diners before a server did. To say it nicely, the enclosed play area filling a corner of the dining room is “well-loved.” In contrast to Phinney Market Cafe or Vios in Ravenna, both of which maintain substantial dining-room play areas that are organized and weave into the space, the Pritty Boys kid station is a clusterfuck of crazy.
When I asked a really friendly server—and former summer-camp counselor—how he navigates the kidsanity, he explains his technique: He stops walking when kids are about to run into him. Then he just stands there and waits for it to happen.
There are some bright spots here—in addition to the main dining room, an adjoining “game lounge” geared toward older kids and tweens is open during the dinner rush. That’s a good idea in a town where more than enough restaurants feature only toddler play areas. Also, the dining room’s cheeky nods to pizza parlors from the ’70s and ’80s bring the right amount of nostalgia, from the red vinyl booths to the novelty vending machines filled with slime balls and plastic doodads.
The East Coast–style pizza at Pritty Boys is nothing fancy, but it’s made with quality ingredients and is consistent and filling. The crust holds the right balance of crisp and chew, and is topped with plenty of cheese. Pies are sauce-heavy, with the “Lean & Green” featuring a nice marriage of meat and veggies. Diners with diet sensitivities will find options, too: Pizzas can be made with vegan cheese and the kid’s menu includes gluten-free mac and cheese.
Should you eat here? It depends. If you dine at Pritty Boys and are on the fence about making babies, the chance that you’ll be eager to conceive after your meal is close to zero. But if you have kids and have built a thick skin when it comes to their antics, then give it a shot. I’d venture to say you’ll be more than ready for a pint of Manny’s by the time you place your order. But since your kids will be well occupied, you might actually get a chance to have an uninterrupted conversation with the other adults at the table. E
food@seattleweekly.com
