The sushi at Nijo isn’t for everyone. First and foremost, it’s not for purists: The “Flamin’ Fire” roll—a spicy tuna roll wrapped in albacore and yellowfin, sprinkled with rum, and set aflame—sees to that. Nontraditionalists would do well to treat the newest Japanese outpost in West Edge as a lunch place, good for business meals or, on the other hand, midday escapism. Even the humble miso soup gets fancied up at Nijo: You can order it with typical tofu ($2) or try the iconoclastic lobster version ($5). The restaurant does a few simple standbys like veggie tempura ($6.95), but even the nonflambé rolls are mostly high-end, like the three-fish Post Alley roll ($8 for tuna, salmon, and yellowtail with wasabi tobiko, cucumber, and avocado). When you finally catch your breath, the raw materials turn out to be pretty good; Nijo’s octopus and clam are standouts, and the chirashi don ($11.95 for a selection of sashimi on rice) offers a pleasant tour of the restaurant’s wares. But if you make an order to go, caveat emptor: The restaurant is so new (it opened Nov. 1) that the kitchen hasn’t nailed down a workable take-out rhythm yet. A recent request for five dishes to be ready at noon resulted in a 12:40 lunch; in general, order early or late to avoid the rush, or just expect your food half an hour later than you say you want it. 83 Spring St., 206-340-6424. WEST EDGE