From the outside, it’s an oversized, whitewashed building looming over South Jackson Street; inside, New Kowloon is a humming dim sum factory. At lunchtime, an assembly line of carts piled high with little dishes circulates through two large dining rooms, steered by servers who expertly dispense hum bao, shrimp rolls, and chicken feet with the speed and efficiency of Vegas card dealers. Don’t hurry, though: The longer you sit and sample, the more variety comes rolling out of the kitchen. On our last visit, we gorged on skewers of shrimp in a bright orange sweet and sour sauce; crispy fried shrimp rolls; shrimp and pork dumplings in a sweet, firm casing; nondescript chicken meatballs; and gingery pork shu mai dumplings—and the bill for two people came to less than $20. Arrive before noon on weekends to avoid long waits, or visit on a weekday; New Kowloon serves dim sum seven days a week, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 900 S. Jackson St. (#203), 206-223-7999, http://new-kowloon.cwok.com/new-kowloon/index_e.html. INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT
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