Poi, pineapple, snorkel, luau . . . vodka. When I say “vodka,” would you ever in a million years think “Maui”? The island known as Seattle West come wintertime, thanks to the precipitation levels, joins the spirits business, thanks to the Smith family of Kahului, Maui. Their Ocean Vodka has been available by special order in our state for some time—check store No. 101 on Fourth Avenue South—but your friendly local liquor stores soon will stock this enticing, uncommon island spirit.
I met with company president Shay Smith right after his presentation to the Washington Liquor Control Board last month to talk and taste. Smith told me that the process to list liquor with our state, after submitting all the paperwork and going through label approval, is far more simple than he’d expected. He said, “The board wants to know the qualities that separate your product from standard products in the category. You start with setting the stage for your product, then how you’ll be supporting it in the market after, [as well as providing details on] selective advertising, P.R., who’ll be working on the sale.” Market support is important in our state because our state-only store system severely limits alcohol advertising. It also keeps the big guys from employing their most effective strategies, like the three-pronged attack of cheap plastic giveaways, coasters, and shot girls. Oh, and the board does a taste test, of course.
When asked about what separates Ocean from other vodkas, Smith says, “Our vodka is organic, and we use deep ocean water to make it. I think our only barrier is getting people to try it.” In fact, the water comes from 3,000 feet below sea level off the coast of Kona, has never been anything but freezing cold, and is rich in minerals. The Smiths desalinate the water before mixing it with distilled spirits made from organic rye and corn. There are other organic vodkas on the market, including Square One and Vodka 14, and beers have touted artesian water sources for years, but how do you beat H2O from the deep?
Ocean Vodka’s water source is also a big part of the flavor. I never get that excited about vodka, but I think I love this one. Vodka is supposed to be odorless and flavorless, prized for its clean taste. Better vodkas never taste or smell harsh and burn a little less than the cheap stuff when going down. A few local bartenders and I put Ocean to the test against—well, let’s just say the lineup included a few of the 10-buck-cocktail set’s favorite brands. Ocean stuck out for us all for many reasons.
In a way, Ocean reminds me less of vodka than the high-end Japanese shochu I’ve tasted, which picks up subtle characteristics from the starches used to make the booze. The use of rye and corn gives Ocean a richer flavor, with a little sweetness on the tongue, but it still tastes clean. The flavor doesn’t hit you as minerally, like in a white wine or Pellegrino, but it does hint at things other than burning alcohol and activated charcoal. It has a really cool back-of-the-nose aroma when it’s in your mouth and, even at room temperature, feels like vodka pulled from the freezer, when it has become extra unctuous and thick. Smith says the minerals in the ocean water contribute to the mouthfeel.
Ocean is a drinker’s vodka, so there’s no need to hide any harshness with fruity mixers. Shaken over ice and served up is the best way to enjoy its mouthfeel and soft complexity. If I had to add anything to this vodka, it might be a giant strip of lemon or grapefruit peel. Adding any syrup or fruit juice buries the unique qualities of a spirit like this. Aloha, Ocean, and mahalo, Smith family.
