How is it possible to be both humble and sophisticated? If you’ve had Philip Mihalski’s wild king salmon with matsutake mushrooms, leeks, and kale, you know. You can also taste the paradox in Mihalski’s pumpkin soup; the thick amber puree is wholesome and unpolished, while the swirled cumin crème fraîche makes the bowl lightly exotic and just a little decadent. In fact, you can taste—and see—evidence of Mihalski’s somewhat contradictory nature all across his menu. At Nell’s, it isn’t that the chef creates bold and daring dishes that knock each other out or clamor for your attention, but rather that elegant, informed ingredients are able to mingle in a manner that allows for distinction and simple, refined satisfaction. The space itself is unassuming and almost frugal, suggesting, perhaps, that what’s really worth looking at is on your plate.
The restaurant doesn’t always make it on the same lists as Cascadia, Dahlia (where Mihalski once worked), and Union (whose Ethan Stowell used to cook at Nell’s), but to his credit, Mihalski doesn’t seem to lose any sleep over it. While he’d like nothing more than to prepare your evening meal, it just isn’t in him to jump up and down in order to do it. Even in his decision to take over the space formerly occupied by Saleh al Lago, a longtime Green Lake favorite, he was displaying modesty—and confidence: He had a standard to live up to, and a name to make for himself far outside the food locus. And not only did Mihalski gracefully return the kitchen to Saleh Joudeh for three nights last spring, he’s kept one of the former proprietor’s most beloved dishes on the menu, too.
ALONG WITH SALEH’s calamari (served with a tartly dressed parsley salad, tangy aïoli, and crisply fried capers—Mihalski’s addition—for $9), Nell’s has been serving its own Dungeness crab salad, with Braeburn apples and radishes ($13), since the doors opened in 1999 (the restaurant celebrates its fifth anniversary this November). Nell’s has a habit of declining to fix things that are not broken. The first course Dungeness dish is a perfect example of how visually lovely Mihalski’s preparations can be. Remarkably tiny julienne strips of radish appear as red specks in a round stack of crab and cubed bright apple; you see only the colorful ends, and their polka-dot appearance mirrors the speckled bite they give to the rich crustacean.
For main dishes, Nell’s, in humble yet sophisticated fashion, updates the meat- and-potato principle and offers mostly seafood and meat dishes. I haven’t encountered risotto or pasta entrées at Nell’s, but they’ve not been missed. Each main component—pan-seared duck breast, grilled pork tenderloin—is typically paired with something leafy and artfully sautéed, and something hearty, earthy, and once rooted. Mihalski seems enamored of mushrooms; four varieties are on his menu as of this review—quite fitting considering the season and our soggy, shaded climate.
On my last visit, grilled ahi tuna ($24) was served over a generous portion of buttery cooked spinach, and an even more generous portion of lobster mushrooms gave the stock-based sauce a slight red hue. The braised artichoke hearts on the side weren’t much to my liking, but the meaty, substantial texture had its place in the dish. On the same evening, my friend’s Kobe hanger steak ($26) came with unordinary potatoes, latticed yellow and green beans, and a perfectly tangy and relatively light peppercorn sauce. Both dishes were approachable and wonderful; had we been feeling daring, something like calf’s liver with roasted Walla Walla onions ($18) would have been a little more adventurous—and a little familiar, too.
Wine director Jeanine Burke has compiled an extensive wine list that draws mainly from Europe while showcasing regional wines as well. Although the by-the-glass offerings are relatively limited, the half-bottle selection is at least double that at most restaurants. A friend who is incredibly fluent in wine accompanied me on my last visit and found the overall selection top-notch. Casual wine drinkers will also find labels they recognize and should feel comfortable selecting accompaniments for their courses. Should help be needed, Burke stands out as the warmest among an austere and reserved wait staff.
IT’S MIHALSKI’S HABIT to come out of the open kitchen at the end of the evening and chat with his guests, even though he isn’t really the chatty type. When I visited with him after my last meal there, we talked about existing happily outside of city centers and he told me simply, “I don’t like busy food.” I noticed that his voice becomes quietest toward the end of his sentences. Mihalski has absolutely nothing to prove, and dish after careful, expressive dish, he proves it.
Nell’s Restaurant, 6804 E. Green Lake Way N., 206-524-4044, GREEN LAKE. Dinner 5:30–10 p.m. daily.
