Julien PerryA barkeep as lovely as her surroundings.The Watering Hole: Madison Park

Julien PerryA barkeep as lovely as her surroundings.The Watering Hole: Madison Park Conservatory, 1927 43rd Ave. E., SEATTLEThe Atmosphere: Since its November 30 opening, Madison Park Conservatory has quietly–and quickly–garnered a loyal foodie following. Quietly, because if you didn’t know it was there, you wouldn’t know it was there. Tucked between the bustle of neighboring McGilvra’s and long blocks of stately waterfront dwellings, one could easily pass Madison Park Conservatory’s shaded front. As I did. Twice. Inside, diners (or drinkers, in this case) are immediately greeted by a slow rush of warm, savory air, a friendly smile from the hostess, and the low glow of a gracefully rustic, yet modern, interior. Madison Park Conservatory’s quiet decadence drips over into its menu, which is spotted with items like roasted bone marrow, grilled wagyu beef tongue, (greatly anticipated) deviled eggs with crab salad, and creative vegetarian plates, such as tajarin with local vegetables. It’s very, very dark inside. The kind of dark that makes you feel like you’re the keeper of a lovely secret. Or perhaps you’re doing something lovely, that you should probably be keeping secret.The Barkeep: Keara wasted no time in preparing a drink with looks that belied its intensity: richly amber-colored in a simple martini glass, garnished with a gorgeous, orange kumquat–the perfect union of drink and design. Asked what said drink was called, Keara stated she preferred not to name it, as naming it might ruin its lovely image. Pressed for a name, Keara finally gave up–but not really. “It’s a Fernet Cocktail,” she said. “It’s a Hanky Panky,” quipped another bartender. “No. It’s a Fernet Cocktail,” insisted Keara, pointing out that “fernet is FAR too masculine to be associated with words like ‘hanky panky’.” Julien PerryA glassful of lovin’.The Drink: Equal parts fernet, sweet vermouth, and gin–and yes, technically known as a Hanky Panky–this drink was perfection in a glass. It was bitter, it was minty, at times it seemed salty, sometimes just a little sweet. After quietly commenting to my companion that I had no idea what fernet was, I was politely informed that it was a slightly minty aperitif, drunk in some countries to cure intestinal woes. So I decided to order another drink and round #2 of the crab deviled eggs. The Verdict: From the low lights to the lush menu, everything about Madison Park Conservatory silently screams hanky panky. It is nice to look at. It is masculine, feminine, dark, warm, tasty, and secretive. It makes you want to order a Hanky Panky and share a sly night that at the very least, your belly won’t regret the next morning.