I’m not sure that anyone in Seattle knows how to cook pork better than Derek Ronspies at Le Petit Cochon in Fremont. I still consider his 18-ounce, bone-in “Phat-Ass” pork chop the best in the city. So maybe I shouldn’t be surprised that he also can make a mean pork noodle bowl—basically, a take on tonkotsu ramen. It’s more noodles and meat than broth; the chunks of pork practically melt before you’ve had a chance to chew them, and the addition of kale, black trumpet mushrooms and pickled garlic scapes provide a wonderful vegetal foil and zing to this rich dish. The small pool of milky broth that these hand-cut, chewy linguine noodles are served in has been rendered down to the most savory essence of pork (made from pork bones and the head of the pig). Every drop is a concentrated testament to how good a lovingly made soup base can be. The topper: a luscious six-minute cooked duck egg. If it weren’t so darn good, it’d be a perfect starter to share. But take it from me: You’ll want every last bit of it to yourself.