I’m growing increasingly tired of every fashionable restaurant’s attempt to get foie gras on the menu, often in more than one dish. Usually when the ingredient is treated tangentially—in this case as foie “butter”—a red flag goes up. But boy, did this dish deliver. It starts with the carrots: utterly silky and pureed within an inch of their lives. They are sweet and warm and remind you just how damn good carrots can be. On top are two medallion-like pieces of very pale foie gras that are salt-cured and thus have never touched heat. They literally melt on your tongue and into the lush carrots like, well, butter. But as they quickly disappear, the foie flavor doesn’t. A vibrant basil pistou and some parsley temper the decadence.

nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com