I’m generally distrustful of ceviche. Too often it consists only of shrimp or a cheaper fish, and can be doused with lime juice to the point of obliterating any other flavors. Not so at Tom Douglas’s first foray into Mexican food at Cantina Lena, just across the street from The Palace Kitchen. In this preparation, perfect bite-sized chunks of yellowtail tuna are marinated in a lime aioli, which adds a slighlty creamy heft that tones down the acidity. Slices of radish and small dollops of guacamole bring further points of interest, while the cripsy tostada it’s served on delivers great crunch. A single thin slice of yuzu kosho (yuzu peel and salt), is a garnish that you’ll want to take a bite of for a single blast of sour amid the otherwise judicioulsy balanced dish. It’s a great starter for two, though even the four in my party all managed to get a taste.E

nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com