If you’ve not yet dined at Shanik, here are two good reasons: It grinds its own spices, which will cause any self-respecting home cook to blush with shame should she (me) have a 6-year old bottle of half-used star anise stashed in the pantry. The just-two-year-old restaurant will also close in March, which should inspire a visit to this bold flavor country on the double. As a bonus, here’s a third: This is vegetarian heaven. For example: A shared plate entree like the exotic vegetable koftes (pictured above, on the right), chickpea flour-based sausages swimming in a decadent tomato curry, are savory and rich enough to stand up to the menu’s other daring dishes featuring lamb and yes, protein-packed crickets. It was recommended by my server as her favorite, and has a nice kick to it. If the heat proves too much for you, that’s the mercurial nature of the house spice blend; make it mild with a side of cooling raita.

gelliott@seattleweekly.com