If this Indian summer finds you driving south on scenic route 101, stop at River View Dining in South Bend, Wash., for some grilled Willapa Bay oysters. There’s a peek of river from this little shack but the real “view” is of owner Moreno standing over the massive grill/smoker on which he places the bivalves, occasionally squirting them with his sublime secret sauce. I’ve been there many a time before when he barely grunts out a hello. But when I caught him on this gorgeous Sunday, he was all in for a chat.

“So what goes into that sauce,” I ask, trying to be nonchalant.

“A whole lotta love,” he fires back.

“Well, I taste garlic for sure. And white wine, is it?” I try.

He chuckles. “It’s a 13-spice mix and it cooks slowly for a long time, like apple butter. I’ve been making it for 19 years.”

That’s all he’s giving me. I ask about the type of oysters (plump and deep-cupped). He replies, “I just call ‘em Willapa oysters. I know a lot of folks from Seattle know all about the different varieties, but this is just what I get here. This is one of the last protected waterways, so I think that’s what makes them taste so good.”

Internet research indeed reveals that the estuary has some of the cleanest water in the country, and that the oysters, though delicious in flavor, aren’t often found in restaurants on the half shell because they’re not pretty enough. That’s just more for Moreno. Bathing in that garklicky broth, these babies come out ever-so-slightly charred. Bite into one and juices come pouring out and fill the shell; slurp them fast while they’re hot and fresh.

nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com