“I loved Agrodolce when I ate there alone; liked it slightly less

March 13, 2013 12:00 am
A cauliflower soup, scribbled with a brawny black olive vinaigrette, was thicker than its vegan profile would suggest. But like a gangster pummeling a rival who refuses to give up information, the kitchen had smacked the soup with so much salt in hopes of extracting flavor that it ultimately incapacitated the vulnerable vegetable.
A cauliflower soup, scribbled with a brawny black olive vinaigrette, was thicker than its vegan profile would suggest. But like a gangster pummeling a rival who refuses to give up information, the kitchen had smacked the soup with so much salt in hopes of extracting flavor that it ultimately incapacitated the vulnerable vegetable.

“I loved Agrodolce when I ate there alone; liked it slightly less when I returned with a companion; and found myself repeatedly apologizing when I dragged three friends there. I suspect that’s because the food isn’t engineered to wow on first bite, so the pass-and-play style of eating falls flat. Most of the dishes are fairly elemental, which is rough on diners looking for culinary conversation-starters, but ideal if you’re wanting to string together a coherent four-course order with drinks to match.”Read more of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua HustonPublished on March 13, 2013

Order the rich house-cured pork loin, its fattiness cut by chili-flecked olive oil and age offset by twirls of fresh fennel.

Order the rich house-cured pork loin, its fattiness cut by chili-flecked olive oil and age offset by twirls of fresh fennel.

A folksy cacciatora with strands of roasted rabbit.

A folksy cacciatora with strands of roasted rabbit.

All of the pastas are made in house, though, including a pleasant ricotta ravioli garnished with black truffle butter.

All of the pastas are made in house, though, including a pleasant ricotta ravioli garnished with black truffle butter.

A spunky arugula salad dressed with blood orange segments and ricotta salata should also keep spirits up.

A spunky arugula salad dressed with blood orange segments and ricotta salata should also keep spirits up.

Dinner should surely end with the rice pudding fritters, which magically combine the brilliance of pudding and doughnuts. Painted with citrus honey, the dessert is even more persuasive than Spanish scientists in making the case for eating more rice.

Dinner should surely end with the rice pudding fritters, which magically combine the brilliance of pudding and doughnuts. Painted with citrus honey, the dessert is even more persuasive than Spanish scientists in making the case for eating more rice.

Fortunately for diners who get thirsty, general manager Aaron Robinson has assembled an excellent cocktail list, populated with drinks which don't attempt to overpower the food.

Fortunately for diners who get thirsty, general manager Aaron Robinson has assembled an excellent cocktail list, populated with drinks which don’t attempt to overpower the food.

The Curveball, made with bourbon, rum, amaro and lemon pink-peppercorn bitters, is a sophisticated and alluringly viscous alternative to a Manhattan, while the Old Aquaintance aE“ built on a base of scotch and averna aE“ has an Old World warmth.

The Curveball, made with bourbon, rum, amaro and lemon pink-peppercorn bitters, is a sophisticated and alluringly viscous alternative to a Manhattan, while the Old Aquaintance aE“ built on a base of scotch and averna aE“ has an Old World warmth.

Agrodolce may be a restaurant best enjoyed without much company. I loved Agrodolce when I ate there alone; liked it slightly less when I returned with a companion and found myself repeatedly apologizing when I dragged three friends there. I suspect that's because the food isn't engineered to wow on first bite, so the pass-and-play style of eating falls flat. Most of the dishes are fairly elemental, which is rough on diners looking for culinary conversation starters, but ideal if you're wanting to string together a coherent four-course order with drinks to match.

Agrodolce may be a restaurant best enjoyed without much company. I loved Agrodolce when I ate there alone; liked it slightly less when I returned with a companion and found myself repeatedly apologizing when I dragged three friends there. I suspect that’s because the food isn’t engineered to wow on first bite, so the pass-and-play style of eating falls flat. Most of the dishes are fairly elemental, which is rough on diners looking for culinary conversation starters, but ideal if you’re wanting to string together a coherent four-course order with drinks to match.

The confident service contributes to the urbane feel of the handsome room, fronted by white casement windows which reach to the ceiling. In the room's main section, the lighting's dim enough for romance or frank conversation aE“ Agrodolce's a ringer for the backdrop restaurants in movies chronicling the failing marriage of inexplicably wealthy artists or college profs aE“ but not so dark that a solo diner can't bring a book.

The confident service contributes to the urbane feel of the handsome room, fronted by white casement windows which reach to the ceiling. In the room’s main section, the lighting’s dim enough for romance or frank conversation aE“ Agrodolce’s a ringer for the backdrop restaurants in movies chronicling the failing marriage of inexplicably wealthy artists or college profs aE“ but not so dark that a solo diner can’t bring a book.

A similarly patterned interior wall separates the dining area from the bar and a loungy area partially concealed by long red drapes.

A similarly patterned interior wall separates the dining area from the bar and a loungy area partially concealed by long red drapes.

709 N 35th St Seattle, WA 98103(206) 547-9707

709 N 35th St Seattle, WA 98103(206) 547-9707