From David Varley, chef at RN74

HOT: Honest food and flavors. It’s nice to see the industry correcting itself back to really cooking and not using every excuse to cryovac something or manipulate the texture as a gimmick just because you can. Soulful cooking relying on classic technique has always tasted better to me, even if it hasn’t been as convenient or consistent.

LUKEWARM: Tasting menus. I still like curating the experience for our guests and leading them in the right direction toward our coolest stuff, but I draw the line at the “hostage negotiation” situations, and prefer to eat what I want when I go out.

FREEZER-BURNED: Looking like a dirtbag in the kitchen. I’m really tired of cooks and chefs wearing greasy T-shirts on the line, especially in open kitchens. I’m not advocating toques and neckerchiefs here, but at least a chef’s jacket or a nice button-down shirt and apron. It shows guests you take their experience seriously.