The lounge and dining areas at Table 35 (4752 California Ave. S.W.) in the West Seattle Junction are separated by what looks like sparkly pink and silver halter-top drapes. The sprawling bar is punctuated by a backdrop made from some sort of PVC pipe design with a rotating color palette, a la BOKA. Think Cocktail meets Rick’s—with the same cheesy soundtrack.

This night, Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” is playing over the loudspeaker, prompting one 40-something drunk dude to sing along, as if to serenade the two hot young things behind the bar.

One of them is a confident, energetic, polished gal named Kristi Chambers, who’d moved to Seattle from Vancouver, Wash., eight days before Table 35 opened on Jan. 9. “Before I started here, I was the bar manager at McGrath’s Fish House for four years,” she says. “I moved up here just for a change of pace. I just wanted to get out of Vancouver and try something new.”

Moments later, Chambers returns with a pretty little pink cocktail. “This is the Table 35 Cosmo,” she explains as she sets down the glass. “It’s got muddled limes, cranberry juice, ruby-red grapefruit, 7-Up, vodka, triple sec, and St. Germain.”

You can find the premium cosmo under the “Candy Drinks and Tropictails” category on Table 35’s menu for $10. It’s a little too sweet and doesn’t have enough kick to it, especially for the price. And for all its ingredients, it’s difficult to identify any of them, even after several sips. That Chambers was super-psyched to talk about it is the drink’s only saving grace.

So if you happen to be visiting Table 35 during happy hour and are craving something light and fruity, order the regular cosmo and save yourself a five-spot.

First Call is a weekly feature on our food blog, Voracious (seattleweekly.com/voracious), in which we ask a bartender to make us his or her favorite drink.