Ever since founder/chef Josh Henderson and Skillet hit the dining scene in a vintage 1962 Airstream mobile kitchen, the truck has been a big hit. Specializing in American classics with seasonal ingredients, Seattleites have been queuing up since 2007 to fill their bellies with the legendary burger with bacon jam and fries with poutine. You will soon see a fleet of Skillet’s Airstreams roaming around town, in addition to its brick-and-mortar diner in Capitol Hill, counter in the Seattle Center Armory, and one other permanent spot planned for Ballard this summer.
At 2011’s San Francisco Street Food Festival, amid loads of vendors cranking out standout food ranging from Scotch eggs to moth-larvae tacos, Skillet’s menu seemed subdued, but the truck got a lot of attention. I remember hearing one foodgoer gush over the Airstream: “I just loooooove that truck.”
Would Skillet be just as successful without the Airstream? Seattleites have an established love of all things retro and vintage. Henderson, a pioneer of the modern food-truck movement, may have drawn in some first-timers through the intrigue of his snazzy silver trailer, but converted many of them into regulars through his exceptional eats.
Another Airstream that recently hit the scene is Slate Coffee, parked in Piecora’s Capitol Hill parking lot. Slate is owned by Chelsea Walker, her brother Keenan, and their mom. This trio’s story and love of coffee couldn’t be cuter if they played the harpsichord and sang. You will also find former baristas from Zoka and Victrola at this coffee mecca.
I am confident this Airstream is way more than just “cute” after two of RN74’s dashing sommeliers, Luke Wohlers and Chris Tanghe, tell me about its greatness. They’re studying to be master sommeliers (fewer than 200 people in the world have earned this title), which means they have superhero tasting abilities and impeccable taste. They both order an espresso “neat,” while I go with a Panamanian brew prepared through the Chemex. Everything is brewed to order, so don’t be an impatient monkey when you make a pit stop here.
Chelsea Walker tells me to expect notes of chocolate and fruit. As she hands it to me, I can smell chocolate and fruit through the lid. She invites us aboard the Airstream, pimped out with chocolate hardwood floors, and I have to admit I am smitten with the truck and its charming staff.
But as Wohlers explains, the owners of this small-batch business take their coffee seriously. Wohlers half-jokes he had his “little mind blown” after hearing about their rigorous process; for example, after roasting, you can tell which beans are good by their shape. One by one, the crew discards the ones that aren’t up to snuff. No one will be surprised to hear they use only direct-trade beans.
The crew is planning a retail space in Ballard, so stay tuned. In the meantime, you can catch Slate and its Airstream 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Wed.–Sun.
I have a love of Airstreams and all things unusual, but my bigger love is for all things that taste exceptional. Skillet and Slate have nailed both. E
food@seattleweekly.com