The restaurant shines bright turquoise on the Americana-meets- bohemian strip of 45th Street in Wallingford. It looks cutesy and forgettable from the outside; the interior, on the other hand, leaves a lasting impression, thanks to charming, personable service and a Japanese-Polynesian menu that reinvents historically bland dishes. Whereas miso soup is often undistinguished, Clara’s misoshiru ($6) is bold, full of tofu pouches stuffed with shitake mushrooms, sweet yam, and caramelized onions. By the same token, many mackerel dishes barely register on the palate, but Clara’s fillet is flavored expertly with Hawaiian sea salt and lemon ($7). Unexpectedly, Clara’s also puts the New York back in cheesecake with its version ($3.50), giving the standard a new, lemony sharpness. The house specialty, haupia (complimentary upon request), is a coconut pudding fit for royalty. It’s simple, sweet, and cloud soft—maybe the lightest comfort food you’ll ever have. 1913 N. 45th St., 206-633-2700. WALLINGFORD