Brunch at Roux

seemed like the right place to begin a rainy Saturday last weekend.

While the rabbit hash enticed, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity for fried oysters. Not just any fried oysters—but three zaftig ones in a not-at-all greasy breading, which they burst through in brackish glory. (A fried oyster that actually tastes like the sea instead of cornmeal is a rare treat.) Then take that perfect incarnation and place it atop a subtly sweet griddle cake. Crown it with two eggs Benedict, of which the hollandaise is kicked up with more tang than usual, and you’ve got a breakfast that’ll blow away your taste buds. The sweet-briny-piquant dish manages to be both complex and hearty. It was so satisfying that I wasn’t even tempted to touch the side of potatoes.

nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com