"An endlessly quaffable pichet of Marselan is a mere $18, and the

“An endlessly quaffable pichet of Marselan is a mere $18, and the most expensive pichet is a pittance at $29. But the trout amandine is just sad. Normally this classic dish is so French that if you put German food next to it, the trout amandine would immediately let the sauerkraut take over its plate. A well-made trout amandine comes to the table pan-fried a comforting golden-brown, like heroin and twice as addictive, glistening with a glossy shellacking of brown butter and topped with a cluttered toss of toasted almond slivers. Not at Le Grand Bistro. The trout was fine, if a bit dry, but definitely bland, and the almonds on top were scorched a dark brown. It looked like a sad-clown shoe, worn by a clown who hides his crippling depression behind a goofy faA§ade. The accompanying arugula salad was fresh and glossed in a light vinaigrette, but not light enough to lift the sadness caused by the depressing trout clown-shoe.”Of course, the Surly Gourmand had MUCH more to say – read his full review of Le Grand Bistro Americain.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on April 14, 2011