I can put it away, but a full meal at Ovio is my personal Everest. That grandmalike insistence on overfeeding you works wonders during happy hour (4:30 to 6:30 p.m. weekdays), however. While many nice restaurants just play the dollar-off game, Ovio goes all out. For just $2 each, the peppadews (South African sweet/hot peppers) stuffed with goat cheese, and a fully accessorized smoked-trout bagel, are tasty treats. Down them with a $2 pint of Manny’s Ale (Roger’s Lager is also available), or you might opt for a $4 glass of cab or chard. And how many happy-hour menus offer dessert? Uh, handmade truffles ($2)? But the upstairs/downstairs combo of $3 tuna tartar on the same menu with a giant chorizo-spiked, green-bean-and-bacon-packed shepherd’s pie ($3.50) sums up Ovio best: This restaurant hits all your culinary and comfort hot buttons, sometimes too hard. But at these prices? I say thank you, sir; may I have another? 4752 California Ave. S.W., 206-935-1774, www.oviobistro.com. WEST SEATTLE