“Unlike Mehak, Shanik is a restaurant to be seen: At the back

February 27, 2013 12:00 am
Perhaps the best dish I sampled at Shanik was a griddled pura. Although its crowning tomatoes and onions were lost in a bacon haze, the crepe itself would be the pride of any Sunday morning pancake flipper.
Perhaps the best dish I sampled at Shanik was a griddled pura. Although its crowning tomatoes and onions were lost in a bacon haze, the crepe itself would be the pride of any Sunday morning pancake flipper.

“Unlike Mehak, Shanik is a restaurant to be seen: At the back end of its boxy dining room is a conspicuously posh lounge, furnished with exposed light bulbs, an elaborately cut-out cornice, scrolling wooden benches, and darker wooden tables of the same squat height. The naan, though, is considerably less baroque.” Read more of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua HustonPublished on February 27, 2013

The rubbery deviled eggs are stuffed with a curry so gritty it sticks in your teeth.

The rubbery deviled eggs are stuffed with a curry so gritty it sticks in your teeth.

A pile of Brussels sprouts, sauteed to the leaf-shedding point, probably made sense on a spreadsheet: With cashews for crunch, paneer for silkiness, bell peppers for acid and the sprouts for bitterness, the dish should have worked. But without any spice to stitch together its various components, the dish tasted flat.

A pile of Brussels sprouts, sauteed to the leaf-shedding point, probably made sense on a spreadsheet: With cashews for crunch, paneer for silkiness, bell peppers for acid and the sprouts for bitterness, the dish should have worked. But without any spice to stitch together its various components, the dish tasted flat.

All you have to do is resist the urge to dredge Shanik's bum naan through it.

All you have to do is resist the urge to dredge Shanik’s bum naan through it.

Undercooked shortribs, slathered with a mahogany-colored tomato cream curry, would have benefited from a shake of salt.

Undercooked shortribs, slathered with a mahogany-colored tomato cream curry, would have benefited from a shake of salt.

Overcooked salmon needed more zip than a sheer curry of coconut and ginger offered.

Overcooked salmon needed more zip than a sheer curry of coconut and ginger offered.

Shanik aE“ which last December opened in South Lake Union, after what felt to Seattle's food-fixated tribe like an excruciating long wait aE“ serves naan too. Unlike the restaurant Mehak, Shanik is a restaurant to be seen.

Shanik aE“ which last December opened in South Lake Union, after what felt to Seattle’s food-fixated tribe like an excruciating long wait aE“ serves naan too. Unlike the restaurant Mehak, Shanik is a restaurant to be seen.

At the back end of its boxy dining room is a conspicuously posh lounge, furnished with exposed light bulbs, an elaborately cut-out cornice, scrolling wooden benches and darker wooden tables of the same squat height.

At the back end of its boxy dining room is a conspicuously posh lounge, furnished with exposed light bulbs, an elaborately cut-out cornice, scrolling wooden benches and darker wooden tables of the same squat height.

With its dreadful service, mangled dishes and often irrational insistence on modernity, the ambitious restaurant has snuffed out the compelling energy that emanates from traditional tandoors.

With its dreadful service, mangled dishes and often irrational insistence on modernity, the ambitious restaurant has snuffed out the compelling energy that emanates from traditional tandoors.

Dhalwala has also openly acknowledged problems, using her Twitter feed to apologize for equipment failures which hobbled Shanik's soft opening and, three weeks later, to advertise for cooks and a head chef.

Dhalwala has also openly acknowledged problems, using her Twitter feed to apologize for equipment failures which hobbled Shanik’s soft opening and, three weeks later, to advertise for cooks and a head chef.

"Unlike Mehak, Shanik is a restaurant to be seen: At the back

Dhalwala has also openly acknowledged problems, using her Twitter feed to apologize for equipment failures which hobbled Shanik’s soft opening and, three weeks later, to advertise for cooks and a head chef.

The Vij's name and desirable location have conspired to keep Shanik very busy, and the restaurant's slatted wooden ceiling doesn't do much to muffle the crowd's noise. On my first visit, the room's decibel level measured 86, which is slightly louder than heavy city traffic.

The Vij’s name and desirable location have conspired to keep Shanik very busy, and the restaurant’s slatted wooden ceiling doesn’t do much to muffle the crowd’s noise. On my first visit, the room’s decibel level measured 86, which is slightly louder than heavy city traffic.

Shanik, 500 Terry Ave. N, 486-6884, shanikrestaurant.com, Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.

Shanik, 500 Terry Ave. N, 486-6884, shanikrestaurant.com, Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.