Union Hall

In my opinion, the reason the political process takes so long and is so corrupt is that there is not enough good beer involved. I know that it isn't written in the history books, but when I see renderings of the signing of the Constitution, everybody looks pretty well sauced. So here's my proposal for Seattle politicians: Move decision-making meetings to Brouwer's. It has huge communal tables, plenty of seating, an upper balcony from which citizens could observe and chime in with lofty opinions, and most important . . . excellent beer. Brouwer's specializes in Belgian brews, but also boasts many micros from up and down the Left Coast. And while these domestic brews are inarguably excellent, the Belgians are what pair best with the hearty food Brouwer's serves, such as the potato-leek gratin and the toasty pommes frites (best when dipped into a dish of chipotle mayo). It's a fact—good people drink good beer, bad people drink bad beer. Brouwer's could turn City Attorney Tom Carr on to St. Bernardus Tripels and Tim Eyman on to North Coast IPAs. One can assume that fewer of their half-witted ideas would surface if properly drowned in the hoppy bliss of fine beer. BRIAN J. BARR

Serves: lunch, dinner. 400 N. 35th St., 267-2437. FREMONT $

www.brouwerscafe.com

 

Chiang's Gourmet

When I told a friend about my new favorite Chinese restaurant on Lake City Way, he exclaimed, "You're kidding!" Turns out he'd driven past Chiang's many times and always assumed it was a place to avoid. Who wouldn't? Elegant it's not, at least on the outside, with a strange green cube perched unceremoniously atop a building that fits right in with Lake City's utilitarian-verging-on-tacky aesthetic. But those in search of elegance often miss out, as does anybody who has yet to discover the sumptuous, fiery feasts available at Chiang's for bargain prices. Inside, over big round tables conducive to boisterous family meals favored by everyday folks, you can order off two menus. One features all the classic Chinese-American staples, including top-notch homemade noodles. The other is geared for the tastes of native-born Chinese, offering such items as "drunk pig's feet," "tofu of strong odor," and my favorite, "whole fish with special bean sauce." I've rarely felt my mouth so alive as when I've dug into the huge tilapia loaded with garlic and chiles (price: $11.95). Taiwanese-style dim sum, different from the ubiquitous Cantonese variety, is offered on weekends. NINA SHAPIRO

Serves: lunch, dinner, dim sum. 7845 Lake City Way N.E., 527-8888. LAKE CITY $

www.chiangsgourmet.com

 

Hae-Nam Kalbi & Calamari

Hae-Nam has a few sliding-door rooms along the side for private parties, but the rest of us are all in it together: taking our places at rows of long, plain tables whose edges practically touch. Choosing metal chopsticks and soup spoons from a plastic pencil case, passed up and down the row. Stirring and simmering our own pots of house-special stews, each with sweet chile-paste broths, a garden's worth of vegetables, and calamari, pork short ribs, or, as the restaurant's name suggests, squid and pig united. Despite Hae-Nam's strip-mall setting, the sight of so many people sitting around communal pots warms the heart of this lifelong leftie. When the stew is cooked, of course, together time ends. It's one thing to enjoy eating with strangers and another to let them pluck pieces of kimchi from your cluster of side dishes. That's why the chopsticks are metal—so you can protect your private property. JONATHAN KAUFFMAN

Serves: dinner. 15001 Aurora Ave. N., 367-7843. SHORELINE $$

 

Spice Route

You could hold a political rally, a square dance, and relay races in Bellevue's Spice Route—and all at the same time. A recent makeover only enhanced its ambiance, taking it up from high-school gymnasium to Teamsters' banquet hall. Despite the linen napkins and stemmed water glasses, when the tables fill up on a Saturday afternoon for the weekend brunch buffet, the restaurant feels like it could be a workers' commissary; sweating waiters dash between tables, communicating urgently with the kitchen via their walkie-talkies. The owners democratically serve as many members of the Eastside desi community as they can, pumping out everything from Northern-style naan and boti kabobs to Southern vadas and dosas, even Indo-Chinese chicken Manchurian (say no to the last one, though). Spice Route's most distinctive dishes are its fragrant South Indian curries, like the Andhra chicken pepper fry and the vegetable chettinad. However, with two teams of cooks in the kitchen—one vegetarian, the other omnivore—the restaurant guarantees that almost all the items on its menu are worthy of respect. JONATHAN KAUFFMAN

Serves: lunch, dinner. 2241 148th Ave. N.E., 425-643-4144. BELLEVUE $

www.spiceroutecuisine.com