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The Thinking Carnivore’s Hero

Last Chance impresses even the ultimate burger snob.

By Hannah Levin

April 9, 2008

Hannah Levin

What: Cheeseburger, brisket and bean chili, classic meat chili, and smoked-jalapeño mac 'n' cheese (yes, I had help).

Where: Slim's Last Chance Chili Shack & Watering Hole, 5606 First Ave. S., 762-7900, www.slimslastchance.com. GEORGETOWN.

Cost: $41.73 (with fries and two sodas).

Official Tasting Notes: Last Chance co-owner Michael Lucas is the thinking carnivore's hero. While some burger purveyors brag about the fact that their meat has never been frozen, Lucas cuts straight to the matter of what really makes the difference: freshly ground meat. Freshly ground means hand-formed patties that are butter-tender on the inside but with a perfectly seared crust on the outside, and a loose construction that results in both seasonings and smoke permeating the meat beautifully. Such gorgeous architecture is not to be fucked with, and accordingly, the cheese is thoroughly melted, the shredded iceberg lettuce is uniformly crisp, the bun is toasted just ever so slightly, and the rich, smoky sauce doesn't conflict with the star ingredient. I'm a complete burger snob, and this one blew me away.

In a bilateral use of ingredients, Lucas also makes an excellent classic ground-beef chili, with a strong, straightforward flavor, that's suited for either gracing one of Slim's Kobe beef hot dogs or nestling in a cup with a contrasting dollop of sour cream and a pinch of fresh chives.

Brisket is the star of the menu at Lucas' neighboring Pig Iron Bar-B-Q (Slim's opened as a drinking and live-music annex in February), so it's no surprise that marrying the beef with pinto beans, dense tomato sauce, and thoughtfully chosen spices would result in a triumph of reincarnation. Accessories are unnecessary, but I couldn't resist dressing mine up with cheddar cheese, sour cream, fried tortilla strips, and diced tomato. The mac 'n' cheese unfolds in unexpected ways, with a creaminess that is never cloying, a sharp dose of what appears to be white cheddar, and that deceptively slow-burning end note of smoked jalapeño. Addictive and potentially dangerous. HANNAH LEVIN

Comments (6)

Reader Comments

1. Comment by joseph — April 10, 2008 @ 1:06PM
Did you need to mar your article and brand yourself as white trash by the use of the f-bomb? Buy a thesaurus.
2. Comment by Steve — April 10, 2008 @ 3:48PM
Fuck you Joseph.
She gets her point across, as do you.
Her point= This burger is carnal.
Your point= I am Joseph, a fucking fuck.
3. Comment by John — April 15, 2008 @ 10:10AM
Since when is 'fuck' a white trash word?
4. Comment by Vince — April 16, 2008 @ 12:19AM
Such Haters! Hey Steve, I think Fuck should be used sparingly, that way it retains some meaning, so back the fuck off, you Fuck!
5. Comment by Steve — April 19, 2008 @ 4:09PM
Vince,
I was simply illustrating the word's underappreciated versatility. Verb, adjective, and noun, all in one response. Also, I have had one of these burgers, and it fuckingly destroyed me with its savory, sexy, deliciousness. Gave me a burgerection.
6. Comment by SolvayGirl — April 24, 2008 @ 11:16AM
Maybe she got her point across...but I found it distracting. I stopped, "Did I really just see that in print?" Then went back to reading the review. I don't think it added to it in any way and made the review more about the reviewer than the restaurant.

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